Zion to Grand Canyon North Rim

For two people who typically are up before the proverbial "crack of dawn," we have quickly grown accustomed to sleeping outrageously late...like 6:00 or even 6:30. One might think we are on vacation or something. So despite all our plans to get "early starts" every morning, we usually find ourselves being tardy. Tuesday morning was not much different, but we knew we had some driving to do to get to the Grand Canyon. We were able to finally leave our wonderful little motel in Springdale at 9:30 and traveled approximately one half mile before a diversion presented itself: a rock shop we had noticed and wanted to peruse, open for business with tons of beautiful rocks just begging to be hauled to Folsom. After spending much time oohhing and aahhing at these various polished wonders, we settled on a pound or so of.lovely mineral and fossil specimens. And then it was "On to the next distraction!", a series of stops along the road to admire the much larger rocks of the Zion scenery and shoot more photos. It is tough to leave Zion. This is a stunningly beautiful park, which we compare to Yosemite. Okay...it is (usually) a much drier climate and can be insanely hot in summer, it doesn't have the lush green forests or as many spectacular waterfalls. But it is a pretty green valley lined with colossal towers of rock. And as you make your way further into the canyon, those towers become closer and their vertical walls seem even more immense...culminating in The Narrows which can be just yards wide. We had some particularly memorable hikes in Zion previously, and would have liked to repeat a few. But it was too hot (high 80's) for us to do anything but our hike/wade through The Narrows. So we reluctantly left the park and headed east.

We passed through the town of Mt.Carmel again, home of the Ho that makes the Ho-Made pies (see previous post) and turned south. We managed to put a few miles between ourselves and Zion and were almost to the town of Kanab when Colleen saw a sign for "Best Friends Animal Sanctuary," a very highly respected animal rescue organization that her mom had made donations to throughout the years.  Best Friends also supports "partner" rescue organizations nationwide, including "Animal Outreach of the Mother Lode" where Colleen volunteers.  Colleen knew they had a facility in Utah but did not know we would be driving right by it. So she was delighted to see the sign and we made a quick turn. I teased her about wanting to get a kitty fix. (She did!!!)  But the only way to get close to the animals is to go on a tour, or to volunteer, either of which would have added a serious delay to our arrival at Grand Canyon.  A very knowledgeable and professional volunteer greeted us, told us about the facilities and programs and answered all our questions.  She also mentioned that they have a vegetarian buffet lunch for a whopping $5 at their cafe. Since it was about time for lunch anyway, we thought that sounded good, and she gave us directions. This facility is huge, with many compounds spread over hundreds of acres, each one designed to house different rescued animals. We proceeded down a dirt road, passing the "Bunny House," "Cat World," "Parrot Garden & Wild Friends" and "Dogtown Heights, A Gated Community" to reach the Cafe. You would never guess this is run by such an organization. It is a very large modern building with a patio overlooking the mountains, packed with hundreds of volunteers taking a lunch break. We piled our plates with delicious salad, soy chicken patties, fruit and a brownie and found a table. While we ate we listened to volunteers discussing work they were doing and classes they were taking and sharing techniques for working with frightened and traumatized animals.  Two big screen TV's on either side of the room flashed pictures and descriptions of animals available for adoption, including some special needs animals who will be flown home free with the right adopter.  We marveled at the professionalism of it all, and at our good luck in stumbling across such a find. Once again, this proves the advantages of being a bit flexible and adventurous while traveling.

Our next distraction was across the Arizona border, where we found some Native American women selling jewelry at a roadside viewpoint. Colleen was drawn to a necklace featuring a cute little bear charm carved in white turquoise. She walked away from it, but I could tell she liked it. She never buys things for herself. So I talked her into returning for the little bear, since then, we learned that the bear charm symbolizes "strength, introspection and power of the soul." ---how perfect for Colleen.

We began climbing the plateau of the North Rim, which at over 8,000 feet is about 1200 feet higher than the Grand Canyon's more accessible South Rim. We knew that this higher altitude meant it would be more forested, but I expected just to see mostly scrubby trees. We are---after all---in the middle of a desert. Instead, there are dense stands of huge Ponderosa Pines, ringed by bright yellow and white aspen and Rocky Mountain Maple.

Soon we began catching glimpses of canyon through the trees to our left. This is Roaring Springs Canyon, huge and deep, probably the biggest canyon I've ever seen. But this is only a side canyon to the big one ahead.  We parked near the lodge and took a short walk to an outlook.

I have read much about the Grand Canyon, and seen many many photos, so had a pretty good idea of what to expect. But that is nothing like seeing it for yourself. We shouldn't even try to describe it, except to say that the word "stunning" seems rudely inappropriate. We gaze across this immense work of nature, with pancaked layers of multicolored rock that display nearly two billion years of earth's history. Beyond it is a huge expanse of flat, broken by the San Francisco Mountains to the south. At the bottom, somewhere way down and virtually invisible, there is a ribbon of water that has created this carving.  Oops. We are trying to describe the indescribable. Better shut up and show some photos.

The Lodge is a grand old building from the 1930's with carved limestone walls and gigantic timbers in the ceiling. There is a huge dining room with windows overlooking the canyon, and large porches with many chairs and a big outdoor fireplace providing warmth for the stargazers. 

Unseen in this photo is a piano, sometimes played by a guest as other guests sing along

Our little cabin is a short stroll from the lodge, a sweet comfy little place nestled in a grove of large pines. We could basically roll downhill from our porch over the canyon edge, but our  adventurousness does have its limits.

We took a few short walks to some of the nearby viewpoints, including a couple of vertigo-inducing spots where I was clutching the rail tight enough to bend the steel. We obliged when another couple asked us to take their photo, and then reciprocated by taking ours. With my mind preoccupied by thoughts of the precipice behind me, they had to remind me to smile.  

We had made the required advance reservations for dinner at the lodge for two of our three nights. But for the night of our arrival we had decided to try the "Deli in the Pines," a little snack bar that offered sandwiches and pizza. We got the last slice of vegetarian pizza, the last slice of cheese pizza and one of the few remaining Caesar salads.  And though it was only 7pm and they were open until 10, the young staff were not going to be bothered to make any more. We assumed this attitude had something to do with these being their last days on the job for the season, as they close everything up immediately after our stay here. Although most of the folks here are very friendly and professional, there seems to be a relaxed vibe bordering on the lackadaisical.

After pizza we found some chairs on the deck and enjoyed the view of the stars.. Far across the canyon we could see the lights of Grand Canyon South, the much more commercial side where we will be in a few weeks. Then we retired to our cabin and had a great nights sleep.

We awoke early enough to be second in line for a seat at the breakfast buffet in the dining hall. While waiting, we struck up a conversation with the folks who were first in line, a delightful couple from Oklahoma, Glenn and his wife Lee.  We ended up sharing a breakfast table.  Since we had first pick of tables we scored the one with the most amazing view out over the canyon.

As I write this it is now our last night at the North Rim.  We have taken several beautiful walks and drives, all of them ending at stunning viewpoints...

Nice spot for a picnic 

Looking toward the canyon of the Little Colorado River

Our two dinners here have been spectacular.  We have sat at the best table in the house for every meal so far, just by making our reservations in the opening time slot and arriving 10-15 minutes early.  The food has been delicious and we have thoroughly enjoyed the luxury of dining out at a table with the best view we will probably ever have.  Since our anniversary is tomorrow we have considered these extravagant dinners to be our anniversary celebration. 

Tomorrow (Friday) we leave this beautiful place and spend the day making our lazy way to our little basic bed and breakfast room at Paria Outfitters near Vermillion Cliffs National Monument.  Saturday we hope to take an all day tour with them in a 4WD vehicle, if weather permits.  By Sunday... Wifi... We hope...